jaybly

HI i have a 2010 Evo x GSR. Last week my stock sub just stopped working. So i took it to the audio place that installed my aftermarket amp (300w JL) and they said it might be my fuse or something. So they took a look at it and said that i blew my woofer. Unfortunatly i did not have the time or money to replace it so i left. Inside my car it looks like the guy left a fuse. This might be a stupid question but does the stock Rockford Fosgate have a fuse and if it does where is it? And if i blew my woofer shouldn't i still hear something? and right now it seems like im just getting sound from the tweeters in the doors, Thanks

oftheheavens

iTrader: (1)

Soundslike the shop botched the job.

If one of the coils is broke you will not hear sound. The only time that you hear sound from a "blown" sub is when you just overextended it and there would be a tear in the boot.

jaybly

Thats sucks!!!! Well sounds like i will be returning to the audio shop then. Thanks for the reply.

mrMTB

iTrader: (13)

If you put an aftermarket amp on the stock sub, you're asking for a driver failure. It's not a matter of if, only when. Do a little searching through this forum, and there's a nice write up where someone installed an aftermarket sub into their RF box.

In the mean time, you can use a multimeter to determine where is the fault:
1) unplug the wiring harness at the back of the sub and determine if you are getting power through the speaker outputs at the amplifier. If not, then check to ensure you amp has power (if not check fuse for amp), and that you're getting signal through the RCAs (if not, check that what you're using to convert the sub signal to line level is getting power).
2) at the wiring harness for the sub, check to ensure that you're getting power there. I do not recall having see a fuse inline with the speaker level sub connector.
3) having checked the above two, you've fried your voice coil, and will be replacing the driver.

jaybly

Hey, thanks mrMTB Ill try that first before i take it to the audio place. This helps a lot!!!!!!

oftheheavens

iTrader: (1)

Sorry that I did not go into detail as the poster above (very informative btw), but I didn't want to assume you had or knew how to use a multimeter. Either way I would take it to the shop and make them replace it. If you have a meter check the ohms coming from the amp with the current wire setup. Could be that the load was to great for the stock sub. Either way both of our end prognosis's were a blown voice coil meaning you would have no sound.

Also a quick ghetto test would be turn the radio up just enough to send signal to the sub, and lightly press the sub inwards and hold to see if it picks up. This can sometime show a blown coil

Hope that helps

journeymansteve

I am not impressed with the stock sub so if it's blown for whatever reason, especially if you put a better amp in under your seat, take the opportunity to get a Kicker. My wife has a 10" CVT kicker sub in her Avalon and I have serious "stereo envy". With the 700w 5.1 amp she has, my Evo sounds like junk compared to that setup. I didn't pay a lot for that 10" sub. You can get them pretty cheap, under $100 for competition quality that ought to bolt right in to the factory enclosure. http://www.amazon.com/Kicker-CompVT-.../dp/B000N8JW3U

mrMTB

iTrader: (13)

Here's a link to the post where someone fit an aftermarket driver into the stock RF sub box: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/8137796-post26.html

jaybly

Hey, thanks guys for the help. Unfortunatly i cant get to it until the weekend but hope for the best. Thanks again!!!

matchstick

The stock sub is a Dual Voice Coil - 75w RMS / 150W MAX @ 1.1ohms per coil


And then you connected a 300w JL amp to it... which from that I can only guess was 150 RMS per channel amp, and I don't know if its a mono or 2 channel and most likely running @ 4ohm, since you gave no specifics on the amp, I can only guess.

Yeah I say you blew the woofer. You were basically running about 4x the subs rated power handling (Factoring the 2x RMS and the and ohms difference).

journeymansteve

Wow, that IS a wussy sub. I think I might replace mine sooner than I thought at first, see if I can get a cheap improvement by going with a Kicker. Will have to run some wires in a circuit to match the impedence, most aftermarket subs are 2- or 4-ohm dual voice coils.

Webman

They probably overpowered that sub. It depends on how they wired it, but if they didn't pay close attention, then they messed it up.

Just replace it with a JL 10W0 or 10W1. If you get a 10W3, it requires a bit of box modification for the depth. I had to do this in my writeup. Tons of pics in my thread about it.

matchstick

If you are going to upgrade the sub, you will have to also get an independent amp to push it.

The stock amp will still be under powered for any after market sub... i.e. it still will only be 75w per channel. And this will could eventually blow the amp.

What you can do is use a Line-Out Converter that handles 80w of input (Most of them seem to handle that much from what I have seen), This will give the low level input needed for an aftermarket amp and connect that to the wiring for the sub that is located at the rear left quarter of the trunk, then connect that to an aftermarket amp, then to the new sub.

Note: Some aftermarket amps also high level input, you need to check the specs to see if it can handle more than 75w RMS input, this would remove the need for a line-output converter.

journeymansteve

OP stated there was already an aftermarket amp. Thx tho.

journeymansteve

I did see another post somewhere recently too about this and they seemed to indicate there was a hassle with the depth of their aftermarket sub. I did see that the latest Kicker comp speakers, less than $100 ea for dual voice coils, were "thin" mount designs. Don't buy something too cheap if it's thick, just to be safe. Remove and measure.