eBay brakes and rotors, good idea or not??
#1
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,093
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
eBay brakes and rotors, good idea or not??
Found some really cheap rotors (slotted, and/or drilled) on eBay.
How safe would it be buying a non-brand name set?
how bad could they be?? And its 2-3x times cheaper than brand name rotors....
- anyone had any Actual experience with such ?
How safe would it be buying a non-brand name set?
how bad could they be?? And its 2-3x times cheaper than brand name rotors....
- anyone had any Actual experience with such ?
#5
Evolved Member
iTrader: (8)
The RotorPro rotors work. But look into other street pads. The HPSs for the Evo sucked for me. Great on my Focus, but lack of bite, stopping power on the Evo. Never will run those again on my car. I do run the Hawk HT10 as my track pad - those work fine.
Check out Satisfied GranSport GS5 or GS6s, Performance Friction Zs, GiroDisc Magics, or the DS2500s (known to make noise though).
Check out Satisfied GranSport GS5 or GS6s, Performance Friction Zs, GiroDisc Magics, or the DS2500s (known to make noise though).
Trending Topics
#10
Evolved Member
iTrader: (8)
Get blanks. Rest are for show in this rotor group. I have seen no difference from using slotted to blank on or off the track. And if you ever need to turn them (pad material build-up) slotted/dimpled/drilled cannot be turned.
Last edited by Smike; Nov 30, 2008 at 05:56 PM.
#11
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,093
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
^ well its not like i need em... mine original oem rotrs and even pads are still great. i just need it for show but dont wanna sacrifice effectiveness, thats why i dont wanna get some eBay rotors with like 500 drill holes, but something that still looks good. so the Q is, what to get, drilled, slotted, dimpled ?
#12
Evolving Member
iTrader: (9)
I have seen mixed reviews on the RotorPro Centric cheapy rotors. Several peeps on here have bought them and used them even on the track and swear they are great. One of the serious track guys had a pretty bad experience on the track with one rotor that cracked pretty badly, but that may have been an isolated case and he is a very serious track driver.
Check this thread out:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=143878
Now as for the different styles of rotors:
For the bulk of Evo drivers doing a mix of mostly street with perhaps the occasional track session you want to stick with blank rotors.
Slotted rotors are used in motorsport by some very extreme braking setups. In the motorsports world, the slotted rotors combined with the aggressive pads have a 2 fold effect:
1) they are said to put a sharper initial bite to the brakes so that they grab faster and harder on initial application
2) The slots scrape against the pads which supposedly deglaze the contact area to improve braking performance.
disatvantage?
1) the slots scraping on the pads will wear out your pads faster.
2) the edges of the slots can (in theory) have a detrimental effect on the overal structural integrity of the rotors. Spider cracks could develop during rapid heat cycling and it is possible that the slots will exacerbate the problem and encourage cracks to propagate
Drilled Rotors:
1) originally developed in the early days of racing when brake pads consisted of organic compounds that sublimated from solid to gas under high temperature and pressure. The cross drilled holes allowed this very thin layer of gas to escape, ensuring flush contact of the pad against the rotor.
Since then, advances in brake pad technology have all but eliminated that problem but the drilled rotors, which were originally developed for high performance race applications, still carried the "high performance" look and as such continued to be used on many street applications.
Advantages:
-could help to evacuate water from between the pad and rotor in the wet
-very very marginal weight saving
Disadvantages:
-original purpose of venting gas created by organic pads does not really exist anymore
-drilling holes in the rotor compromises structural integrity under which can lead to cracks, crack propagation, and brake failure under high heat cycle and loads (like on the track). Chamfered (smooted/rounded) edges on the holes, like some rotors have, will help mitigate cracks propagating from the sharp edge of the holes, but will still have a negative impact on overall structural integrity.
Dimpled
As far as I know dimpled rotors are done simply to get the look of cross drilled without sacrificing as much of the structural integrity of the rotor by drilling only partway through instead of all the way through. The weight savings are even more marginal on cross drilled, yet the benefit of evacuating water (or gas) is not there. Pretty much just for show.
Making a decision?
If you only drive around town in your Evo and use the brakes like any other street drive can, any of these rotors will work fine. You may notice increased pad wear with slotted rotors, but the weaknesses introduced by cross drilling or dimpling will not be an issue on the street.
On the track the story is very different. The danger of rotor cracking is much more sever under he high heat cycles on the track and as such I would recommend either blanks or good quality slotted rotors and a good set of track pads.
Check this thread out:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=143878
Now as for the different styles of rotors:
For the bulk of Evo drivers doing a mix of mostly street with perhaps the occasional track session you want to stick with blank rotors.
Slotted rotors are used in motorsport by some very extreme braking setups. In the motorsports world, the slotted rotors combined with the aggressive pads have a 2 fold effect:
1) they are said to put a sharper initial bite to the brakes so that they grab faster and harder on initial application
2) The slots scrape against the pads which supposedly deglaze the contact area to improve braking performance.
disatvantage?
1) the slots scraping on the pads will wear out your pads faster.
2) the edges of the slots can (in theory) have a detrimental effect on the overal structural integrity of the rotors. Spider cracks could develop during rapid heat cycling and it is possible that the slots will exacerbate the problem and encourage cracks to propagate
Drilled Rotors:
1) originally developed in the early days of racing when brake pads consisted of organic compounds that sublimated from solid to gas under high temperature and pressure. The cross drilled holes allowed this very thin layer of gas to escape, ensuring flush contact of the pad against the rotor.
Since then, advances in brake pad technology have all but eliminated that problem but the drilled rotors, which were originally developed for high performance race applications, still carried the "high performance" look and as such continued to be used on many street applications.
Advantages:
-could help to evacuate water from between the pad and rotor in the wet
-very very marginal weight saving
Disadvantages:
-original purpose of venting gas created by organic pads does not really exist anymore
-drilling holes in the rotor compromises structural integrity under which can lead to cracks, crack propagation, and brake failure under high heat cycle and loads (like on the track). Chamfered (smooted/rounded) edges on the holes, like some rotors have, will help mitigate cracks propagating from the sharp edge of the holes, but will still have a negative impact on overall structural integrity.
Dimpled
As far as I know dimpled rotors are done simply to get the look of cross drilled without sacrificing as much of the structural integrity of the rotor by drilling only partway through instead of all the way through. The weight savings are even more marginal on cross drilled, yet the benefit of evacuating water (or gas) is not there. Pretty much just for show.
Making a decision?
If you only drive around town in your Evo and use the brakes like any other street drive can, any of these rotors will work fine. You may notice increased pad wear with slotted rotors, but the weaknesses introduced by cross drilling or dimpling will not be an issue on the street.
On the track the story is very different. The danger of rotor cracking is much more sever under he high heat cycles on the track and as such I would recommend either blanks or good quality slotted rotors and a good set of track pads.
#13
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,093
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Excellent Answer, Thanks!!
i guess since I only drive in the city (mostly in NYC traffic and over potholes), i dont have to worry about cracking, or other loss of reliability, and can safely get drilled or slotted, just for the looks, while still having all the 40-0 (if that much) braking i can desire
i guess since I only drive in the city (mostly in NYC traffic and over potholes), i dont have to worry about cracking, or other loss of reliability, and can safely get drilled or slotted, just for the looks, while still having all the 40-0 (if that much) braking i can desire
Last edited by S6devil; Dec 1, 2008 at 08:38 PM.
#14
Evolving Member
iTrader: (9)
Excellent Answer, Thanks!!
I guess since I only drive in the city (mostly in NYC traffic and over potholes), i dont have to worry about cracking, or other loss of reliability, and can safely get drilled or slotted, just for the looks, while still having all the 40-0 (if that much) braking i can desire
I guess since I only drive in the city (mostly in NYC traffic and over potholes), i dont have to worry about cracking, or other loss of reliability, and can safely get drilled or slotted, just for the looks, while still having all the 40-0 (if that much) braking i can desire
For around town driving any of the drilled/slotted or dimpled/slotted rotors would be fine. The Evo brakes are really really strong factory stock. In 2003 when it was first brought out to USA, the Evo8 had the shortest 60-0 time of any production car for sale in North America besting the Ferrari 360 Modena's 110ft with a 108ft stop.
In town, always keep an eye on your rear view mirror when braking hard. Not many other vehicle out there can stop like and Evo and if you're not careful you'll end up as roadkill under a big SUV.
Last edited by ktk; Dec 3, 2008 at 11:08 AM.
#15
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,093
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ye i know the specs, and was always amazed at how great the evo brakes supposedly are, besting ferraris... however on my car its a little weird. the abs starts working all tooo fast, meaning even normal braking from like 60 (not even panic braking) evokes the abs to start pumping and releasing... and if its wet outside, forget it, my braking distance is like 300 feet from 60mph... the abs just going bananas.
maybe its my tires (going bald), or maybe my pads are just worn, but the braking doesnt seem all that great....
but either way, im sure the stock brakes are plenty enough for most real life applications... im not getting drilled rotors just cause i think the OEM rotors arent good enough... im gettin it, like i said, mostly for looks (its hard to draw a line between looks and performance with Evo's).
thanks
maybe its my tires (going bald), or maybe my pads are just worn, but the braking doesnt seem all that great....
but either way, im sure the stock brakes are plenty enough for most real life applications... im not getting drilled rotors just cause i think the OEM rotors arent good enough... im gettin it, like i said, mostly for looks (its hard to draw a line between looks and performance with Evo's).
thanks
Last edited by S6devil; Dec 3, 2008 at 10:00 AM.