I need your help!!! any mitsu mechanics here?
Apr 16, 2008, 12:59 PM
#16
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since you have aftermartket injectors, unplug each one from the harness and check the resistance of each one, even though you don't know what they should check out at, they should be very close if not the same to each other; i doubt they're all bad, if you do have a bad injector it will have a noticeablly different reading from the rest. This still won't help you notice if you have a clogged injector but I doubt you do.
although i think you're getting far from the problem by checking multiple things; if you started getting the lean code after you did the TB seals, you're problem might be associated with the replacement of the seals. check the vaccum hoses off the TB, check for voltage into the TPS (5volts usually), check the reading coming out of the TPS when you gradually open and close the throttle. Make sure your plugs are properly connected, you don't have a stretched/disconnected or damaged wire. let us know if you find anything, good luck!
although i think you're getting far from the problem by checking multiple things; if you started getting the lean code after you did the TB seals, you're problem might be associated with the replacement of the seals. check the vaccum hoses off the TB, check for voltage into the TPS (5volts usually), check the reading coming out of the TPS when you gradually open and close the throttle. Make sure your plugs are properly connected, you don't have a stretched/disconnected or damaged wire. let us know if you find anything, good luck!
Apr 16, 2008, 01:06 PM
#18
Just for reference and for what it's worth off the top of my head:
The TPS has three wires hooked up.
1. Supplied Voltage
2. Ground
3. Signal
The supplied voltage wire usually provides the TPS sensor with 5V or so, The ground obviously is just grounded and the Signal wire has a voltage output which depends on the position of your throttle plate. At idle you should have less than 1V, something like 0.5-0.8V, at WOT you should see atleast 4.5V, sometimes more. As you take the reading from the signal wire, the voltage should increase as the throttle opens until you reach WOT. Have fun and enjoy!
Also, if the readings are "out of place" depending on the throttle position, then the ECU is not being properly informed.
The TPS has three wires hooked up.
1. Supplied Voltage
2. Ground
3. Signal
The supplied voltage wire usually provides the TPS sensor with 5V or so, The ground obviously is just grounded and the Signal wire has a voltage output which depends on the position of your throttle plate. At idle you should have less than 1V, something like 0.5-0.8V, at WOT you should see atleast 4.5V, sometimes more. As you take the reading from the signal wire, the voltage should increase as the throttle opens until you reach WOT. Have fun and enjoy!
Also, if the readings are "out of place" depending on the throttle position, then the ECU is not being properly informed.
Last edited by caLi4G63; Apr 16, 2008 at 01:10 PM.
Apr 16, 2008, 01:09 PM
#19
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Just for reference and for what it's worth off the top of my head:
The TPS has three wires hooked up.
1. Supplied Voltage
2. Ground
3. Signal
The supplied voltage wire usually provides the TPS sensor with 5V or so, The ground obviously is just grounded and the Signal wire has a voltage output which depends on the position of your throttle plate. At idle you should have less than 1V, something like 0.5-0.8V, at WOT you should see atleast 4.5V, sometimes more. As you take the reading from the signal wire, the voltage should increase as the throttle opens until you reach WOT. Have fun and enjoy!
The TPS has three wires hooked up.
1. Supplied Voltage
2. Ground
3. Signal
The supplied voltage wire usually provides the TPS sensor with 5V or so, The ground obviously is just grounded and the Signal wire has a voltage output which depends on the position of your throttle plate. At idle you should have less than 1V, something like 0.5-0.8V, at WOT you should see atleast 4.5V, sometimes more. As you take the reading from the signal wire, the voltage should increase as the throttle opens until you reach WOT. Have fun and enjoy!
Apr 16, 2008, 03:18 PM
#24
What? 
It seems to me that you will need someones assistance to properly diagnose your problem as you dont own the tools to do so. Bring it to a shop who can or find a friend to help.
We cant fix your problem over the internet without the ability to test various things
I think every mild to wild modded EVO owner needs to own a laptop, tactrix cable, and ECUFlash (If on the stock ECU of course), and datalogging software. With the datalogging capability you could rule out so many things and point yourself in the direction where you need to be man.
Obviously all of you injectors are not going to be bad so as stated previously check the resistance accross all of them. If one differs greatly you done troubleshooted your EVO
It seems to me that you will need someones assistance to properly diagnose your problem as you dont own the tools to do so. Bring it to a shop who can or find a friend to help.We cant fix your problem over the internet without the ability to test various things
I think every mild to wild modded EVO owner needs to own a laptop, tactrix cable, and ECUFlash (If on the stock ECU of course), and datalogging software. With the datalogging capability you could rule out so many things and point yourself in the direction where you need to be man.
Obviously all of you injectors are not going to be bad so as stated previously check the resistance accross all of them. If one differs greatly you done troubleshooted your EVO
Apr 16, 2008, 04:21 PM
#25
Find someone local with a laptop and Tactrix cable and log your LTFT Lo, LTFT Mid, and STFT. Post up the results as well as your injector scaling and latencies and then people can make suggestions.
Assuming you have checked for vacuum leaks and there are none, my money is on bad injector scaling/latency and/or intake setup messing with the MAF readings (which can also be fixed with MAF scaling). When you do your log, log your airflow (Hz) and RPM as well.
Eric
Apr 16, 2008, 05:38 PM
#26
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There is your answer three times. Even you quoted the service manual which told you that it is the fuel trims that are maxed out causing the CEL.
Find someone local with a laptop and Tactrix cable and log your LTFT Lo, LTFT Mid, and STFT. Post up the results as well as your injector scaling and latencies and then people can make suggestions.
Assuming you have checked for vacuum leaks and there are none, my money is on bad injector scaling/latency and/or intake setup messing with the MAF readings (which can also be fixed with MAF scaling). When you do your log, log your airflow (Hz) and RPM as well.
Eric
Find someone local with a laptop and Tactrix cable and log your LTFT Lo, LTFT Mid, and STFT. Post up the results as well as your injector scaling and latencies and then people can make suggestions.
Assuming you have checked for vacuum leaks and there are none, my money is on bad injector scaling/latency and/or intake setup messing with the MAF readings (which can also be fixed with MAF scaling). When you do your log, log your airflow (Hz) and RPM as well.
Eric
i need to know what "LTFT Lo, LTFT Mid, and STFT" means
Apr 16, 2008, 05:55 PM
#28
Sign up on AktiveMatrix and download Mitsulogger:
http://www.aktivematrix.com/forum/dl...ile&file_id=35
This is the easier software to log fuel trims with.
Once open, check these off:
And log. It will update in real time in that window so you can see how they are or just look at the log.
Make sure you car is fully up to operating temp. Log it at idle and cruise if possible.
http://www.aktivematrix.com/forum/dl...ile&file_id=35
This is the easier software to log fuel trims with.
Once open, check these off:
And log. It will update in real time in that window so you can see how they are or just look at the log.
Make sure you car is fully up to operating temp. Log it at idle and cruise if possible.
Apr 17, 2008, 06:47 AM
#29
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so last night i went to check the resistances on the injectors but i couldnt figure out how to get the injector harness unhooked. i didnt want to break it so i stoped trying.
anyone want to shed some light? it looked like it could be squeezed to relese the sides but i tryed and it didnt want to move.
then i came on here to look at the how to and all the pics were red x's
anyone want to shed some light? it looked like it could be squeezed to relese the sides but i tryed and it didnt want to move.
then i came on here to look at the how to and all the pics were red x's
